PERFECT PIE CRUST: VODKA VS. VINEGAR

When it comes to pie dough you probably have a favorite go-to recipe. But with dozens of recipes to choose from how do you know you're using the best one? You don't. But with a  bit of trial and error you can tweak any pie dough recipe to yield a tender flakey crust. 

What's the secret to a great pie crust? Cold ingredients, a quick light hand, rested dough, and the correct ratio of flour to fat to liquid. Variation in type and proportion of these three ingredients can result in vastly different pie crusts - flaky, crispy, mushy, crumbly, or tough. Varying protein content of flour contributes to a dough's texture and consistency. Lower the protein, the flakier the crusts. I like to use unbleached all-purpose flour, and equal parts butter and shortening for my fat. Butter for taste, and shortening for tenderness. As for the liquid, the options range from plain ice-cold water, milk, apple cider vinegar diluted in water, or a 50/50 split of water and vodka. 

For years, bakers have debated the use of vinegar versus vodka. Why either, why not just ice water? Gluten. Gluten is formed when water is added to flour. Gluten gives a pie crust its shape, but too much gluten can yield a tough or chewy crust. But you need enough liquid to both bind and roll out the dough. The solution? Vinegar or alcohol. Neither react with the flour to create gluten; replacing half the liquid in your dough recipe with vinegar or alcohol means less gluten formation. Some people think vodka is the way to go as it is roughly 50% alcohol; when the alcohol burns off during the baking process the amount of liquid is reduced, yielding a more tender and flakier crust. You can replace 50% of the liquid with any type of alcohol, not just vodka. 

Personally I've never really noticed any difference with either vodka or vinegar; plain ice-water works just fine for me. Why don't you give it a whirl and see if either makes a difference to your pie dough recipe. 

The following recipe for vodka pie dough comes from Cooks Illustrated via KCRW. This recipe is best for double-crust pies as single crusts tend to shrink, particularly when blind baking. 

Cooks Illustrated's Vodka Pie Dough
2 1/2 cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp table salt
2 tbsp sugar
12 tbsp (1 1/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into 4 pieces
1/4 cup cold vodka
1/4 cup cold water

1. Process 1 1/2 cups flour, salt, and sugar in food processor until combined, about 2 short pulses. Add butter and shortening and process until homogeneous dough just starts to collect in uneven clumps, about 15 seconds 9dough will resemble cottage cheese curds and there should be no uncoated flour.) Scrape bowl with rubber spatula and redistribute dough evenly around processor blade. Add remaining cup flour and pulse until mixture is evenly distributed around bowl and mass of dough has been broken up, 4 to 6 quick pulses. Empty mixture into medium bowl. 
2. Sprinkle vodka and water over mixture. With rubber spatula, use folding motion to mix, pressing down on dough until dough is slightly tacky and sticks together. Divide dough into two even balls and flatten each into 4-inch disk. Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 45 minutes or up to 2 days. 

FIRST PRIZE PIES S'MORES PIE

via butter and scotch

I spent the last few days in Joshua Tree / Twentynine Palms / Yucca Valley / Pioneer Town celebrating my friend's 50th birthday. Most of us camped out at the Tile House, an amazing mosaic house located 7 miles from 29 Palms and the east entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. This quirky desert homestead was an explorer's delight with unexpected treasures hidden in every nook, crevice, and cranny. When the sun went down each evening, the night skies sparkled with a plethora of star constellations. It was a fun get-away with good food, good music, and great people.

My only regret is that we never got around to roasting marshmallows -- the evenings were way too cold. I came across this recipe for S'Mores Pie from Allison Kave of First Prize Pies via T Magazine. It would have gone down perfectly this weekend. 

First Prize Pie's S'Mores Pie
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs (10-15 graham crackers)
8 tbsp melted butter
7 ounces milk chocolate, broken in chunks
1 cup heavy cream
1 egg
pinch of salt
1 tsp unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup cold water, divided
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1/2 tsp vanilla extract

1.  Make the crust. Crumble graham crackers into the work bowl of a food processor and process until finely ground. Alternatively, you can put them in a bag and whack them with a rolling pin until finely crushed. Pour melted butter into crumbs and mix (hands are best for this) until the butter is fully incorporated and the texture is that of wet sand. Butter or oil a 9-inch pie pan and firmly press the graham cracker crumbs against the sides, then against the bottom of the pan (the underside of a measuring cup works well for smoothing the bottom crust). Chill for at least 30 minutes to avoid crumbling when serving.
2. While the crust chills, preheat the oven to 350 degrees and prepare the chocolate filling. Put the chocolate in a large mixing bowl. Heat the cream in a saucepan until scalded — do not boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate and allow to stand for 1 minute. Whisk the cream and chocolate together until glossy and smooth. Add a pinch of salt, then crack the egg into the chocolate mixture and whisk to fully incorporate. Pour into chilled crust and bake for 25 minutes, or until the filling is set but still slightly wobbly in the center. Remove from the oven and cool completely.
3. Prepare the marshmallow topping. Pour 1/4 cup water into the bowl of a stand mixer and sprinkle the gelatin on top. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, stir together the remaining 1/4 cup of water, sugar and corn syrup just until sugar is dissolved. Heat until a candy thermometer reads 260 degrees, or hard-ball stage. Remove from heat, turn stand mixer to medium speed to begin beating the bloomed gelatin, and slowly pour in sugar syrup, scraping any remaining syrup from the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Begin increasing the speed of the mixer, avoiding any splashing, and beat until the mixture is white, fluffy and tripled in volume. Add vanilla and beat for a few moments more. Pour the mixture onto the cooled chocolate layer, gently spreading it to the edges of the crust with a spatula. Refrigerate, uncovered, 30 to 60 minutes.
4. The last step: brûlée the marshmallow. A torch is best for this (a propane torch from the hardware store or a butane crème brûlée torch). If using a torch, clear the area of any flammable items, ignite the torch, and slowly wave the flame over the surface of the marshmallow until you achieve the desired level of toastiness. If you do not have a torch, use the broiler of your oven. Preheat the broiler, cover the edges of the pie crust with foil or pie shields, place the pie on a baking sheet and broil — watching carefully to prevent burning — for 2 to 3 minutes, rotating as necessary.
5. To slice the pie, it helps to dip your knife in hot water, then dry it with a towel. The heat facilitates easy slicing through the marshmallow layer. Serves 8. From Allison Kave of First Prize Pies.

THE SOUTH'S BEST PIES

ph: becky styaner via southern living

Here's a galore of the South's Best Pies via Southern Living. My favorite pies are key lime and coconut cream. What's yours?

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

UNITED STATES OF PIE

My friend Yoko hosted a wonderful soiree this afternoon to sell her beautiful handmade pottery and ceramics. We baked a couple of pies especially for the event, and to our delight another friend brought fresh out-of-the-oven apple and wild blueberry mini tarts. It wasn't long before we were all talking pie--baking tips and techniques, favorite pies, we even planned a 2015 pie baking jubilee in a couple of weeks to kick of the new year! 

Yoko's husband also turned me onto a cookbook I'd never heard of before-- United States of Pie. It sounds amazing and I wanted to share it with other pie lovers. Author Adrienne Kane includes more than 50 regional pie recipes from all across the country. The recipes are updated modern interpretations of old classics from her collection of pie recipes from newspaper clippings, church cookbooks, and grandmothers' recipe cards. The cookbook is divided into four regions: Northeast, South, Midwest, and West, so no matter which part of the country you hail from, United States of Pie is sure to include not only old standards but also one of your favorites. I can't wait to check it out. It's definitely on my wish list. 

You can also check out this interview with Adrienne Kane on NPR. 

NUTS FOR WALNUTS

ph: andrew ingalls

We see plenty of pecan pies over the holidays but not as many walnut pies. How about one made with browned butter with a sour cream topping? This recipe for Brown Butter Walnut Pie with Sour Whipped Cream appeared in the November 2013 issue of Saveur magazine. 

Brown Butter Walnut Pie with Sour Whipped Cream

crust and filling:

single butter crust dough (see below)

flour, for dusting

13 tbsp unsalted butter

3/4 cup light brown sugar

6 large eggs

1 3/4 cups light corn syrup

1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

1 1/4 tsp kosher salt

3 cups whole walnut halves, lightly toasted

topping:

1/3 cup heavy cream

2 tbsp confectioner's sugar

1 cup sour cream

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

All-Butter Single Crust

1 1/8 cups flour

1 tbsp sugar

1 tsp salt

12 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed and chilled

6 tbsp ice-cold water

1. Whisk flour, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Using a dough blender, two forks, or your fingers, cut butter into flour mixture, forming pea-sized crumbles. 
2. Add water; work dough until smooth but with visible flecks of butter. (Alternatively, pulse ingredients in a food processor.)
3. Divide dough in half and flatten into disks. Wrap disks in plastic wrap; chill 1 hour before using.

THROWBACK: BROWN DERBY'S BLACK BOTTOM PIE

The Brown Derby was the name of a chain of restaurants in LA. The first and most famous branch opened in 1926 at 3427 Wilshire Boulevard and was shaped like a man's derby hat. In 1937 the building moved a block away to 3377 Wilshire Blvd. The Derby had an astounding 60 year run before it finally closed it's doors in 1985. The menu was famous for a number of items including signature cocktails, the Cobb Salad, and Black Bottom Pie. 

If you're wondering what a black bottom pie is, it's a pie with a bottom layer of dark chocolate custard, usually topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. In the 1940's and 50's, home cooks demonstrated frugality by creating basic recipes that could be minimally altered to achieve a variety of different results. In this case a simple vanilla cream pie is transformed into a black bottom pie with the addition of chocolate. The following recipe was lifted from The Brown Derby Cookbook, published in 1949 by Doubleday. 

via Life Magazine, Dec 7, 1953

Brown Derby's Black Bottom Pie
2 tsp (one envelope) unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup milk
1 oz sugar (2 tablespoons sugar)
pinch salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 egg yolk
3 ounces sweet or semisweet chocolate
1 pint cream, whipped (2 cups whipping cream)
1 (9-inch) baked pie shell

1. Soften gelatin in small amount of cold water for 15 minutes. Bring milk to boil in top of double boiler. 
2. Beat together sugar, salt, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and egg yolk until light and creamy. Add small amount of milk to egg mixture, blending well. 
3. Return to remaining milk in pan. Cook, stirring, over hot water until mixture barely comes to boil. Remove from heat before boiling point is reached. 
4. Press soaked gelatin free of any excess water and dissolve in hot mixture. Strain through a very fine sieve.
5. Grate 2 ounces chocolate. Add to custard and stir over hot water until chocolate is melted. Remove from heat and beat with rotary beater until custard is smooth. 
6. Chill until custard reaches cream-like consistency. Whip 1 cup cream until stiff and fold into custard with remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla. Fill pre-baked pie shell. Place in refrigerator for 30 minutes.  
7. Top with remaining whipped cream 1 inch thick (whipped from remaining 1 cup cream). 
8. Remaining chocolate is now shaved into curled spears and stuck in top. Dust with grated chocolate. Makes 1 pie. 

Shell Pastry Dough for Open-Faced Pies, 2 10-inch shells

3/8 c (1/4 cup & 2 tbsp) sugar

1 egg

1/4 tsp lemon rind, grated

small pinch salt

1/2 tsp vanilla (bean or extract)

2/3 c butter

2-1/4 cup flour

1/2 tsp baking powder

1. Using an electric mixer to combine egg, lemon rind, salt, vanilla, until creamy. 
2. Knead butter till smooth, and add to egg mixture. Then combine all in the mixer at slow speed until a paste is formed. Beat at high speed for only a moment or two. 
3. Allow the paste to relax, and roll out thin on a lightly floured board, baking the shell at 400 º F for 10-12 minutes.