Saturday, May 5, 2018

KENTUCKY THOROUGHBRED PIE


Today is the 144th annual Kentucky Derby in Louisville and what's a more fitting dessert for the horse races than Derby Pie? Unfortunately the name Derby Pie is trademarked by Kern's Kitchen the folks who invented the pie in 1950. They've been known to go after anyone using the name so various adaptations of the pie have been renamed Thoroughbred Pie, Not Derby Pie, or Kentucky Dirty Pie to name a few. The historic dessert is a crust filled with walnut and chocolate chip sweetness that when baked is reminiscent of melted, gooey chocolate chip cookie goodness. Make it "dirty" by adding a splash of Bourbon. 

Kentucky Thoroughbred Pie
1 unbaked 9-inch pie crust
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup flour
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
3/4 cup semisweet-chocolate chips
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 
  2. Par-bake the crust: Place the crust in a pie plate and prick the bottom with a fork. Cover lightly with a sheet of foil, pressing it gently into the crust and making sure the edges are covered. Place weights (metal pie weights or dried beans) on the foil to weigh down the bottom and hold up the sides of the crust. Bake for 10 minutes, then remove foil. Continue baking until the crust is firm and has lost its sheen but is not browned, about 5 more minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
  3. For the filling: In a medium bowl, combine the butter, eggs and vanilla extract. Add the brown sugar and flour and mix until thoroughly blended. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the walnuts and chocolate chips.
  4. Pour the batter into the crust. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a rack to cool. Serve warm.

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

MOMOFUKU'S CRACK PIE


The first time I made Crack Pie was in 2010. I saw the recipe in the Los Angeles Times and I wanted to know what a $44 pie tasted like. It was good, real good. Sweet and addictive. You couldn't help but go for more. Again and again. I made Crack Pie for the second time yesterday. The recipe yields two pies. Just in case you need a backup. You will. Don't tell me I didn't warn you. 

Momofuku's Crack Pie
Oat Cookie for Crust: 
2/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp (3 ounces) flour
scant 1/8 tsp baking powder
scant 1/8 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup softened unsalted butter (1 stick)
1/3 cup (1 1/2 ounces) light brown sugar
3 Tbsp (1 1/4 ounces) granulated sugar
1 egg
scant 1 cup (2 1/3 ounces) rolled oats
  1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 
  2. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. 
  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using an electric mixer, beat the butter, brown sugar and sugar until light and fluffy. 
  4. Whisk the egg into the butter mixture until fully incorporated. 
  5. With the mixer running, beat in the flour mixture, a little at a time, until fully combined. Stir in the oats until incorporated. 
  6. Spread the mixture onto a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking sheet and bake until golden brown and set, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to the touch on rack. Crumble the cooled cookie to use in the crust. 
Crust: 
Crumbled cookie for crust
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 1/2 Tbsp (3/4 ounces) brown sugar
1/8 tsp salt
  1. Combine the crumbled cookie, butter, brown sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse until evenly combined and blended (a little bit of the mixture clumped between your fingers should hold together). Divide the crust between 2 (10-inch) pie tins. Press the crust into each shell to form a thin, even layer along the bottom and sides of the tins. Set the prepared crusts aside while you prepare the filling. 
Filling: 
1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar
3/4 cup plus a scant 3 Tbsp (7 ounces) light brown sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1/3 cup plus 1 tsp (3/4 ounce) milk powder
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup plus a scant 2 Tbsp heavy cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
8 egg yolks
2 prepared crusts
Powdered sugar, dusting
  1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 
  2. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, brown sugar, salt and milk powder. Whisk in the melted butter, then whisk in the heavy cream and vanilla. 
  3. Gently whisk in the egg yolks, being careful not to add too much air. 
  4. Divide the filling evenly between the 2 prepared pie shells. 
  5. Bake the pies, one at a time, for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325º F and bake until the filling is slightly jiggly and golden brown (similar to a pecan pie), about 10 minutes. Remove the pies and cool on a rack. 
  6. Refrigerate the cooled pies until well chilled. The pies are meant to be served cold, and the filling will be gooey. Dust with powdered sugar before serving. 
NOTE: If you don't have 10-inch pie tins you can substitute with two 9-inch pie tins but the pies will require additional baking time due to the increased thickness of the filling, about 5 minutes. 

Thursday, April 19, 2018

WHOLE LEMON PIE

photo: slw


What sounds more easy as pie than five ingredients, a blender, and a pie shell? A Whole Lemon Pie is exactly what is sounds like. That's right you use a whole lemon - peel, pith, and all. Blend and bake and you're rewarded with a sweet and tart custard-like pie bursting with lemon flavor.

Whole Lemon Pie
1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell
1 lemon, medium
1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter, softened (if using unsalted butter, add 1/4 tsp salt)
4 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
Powered sugar for dusting

NOTE: I like to take the time to macerate my lemon(s), otherwise when baked the pie may taste slightly bitter. I also use two medium lemons instead of the one the recipe calls for. To avoid a "chewy" filling I zest the lemon, trim the ends, skin the white pith, then thinly sliced the lemon, removing all seeds. Repeat with second lemon. I put the lemon slices and zest in a bowl and add 1 1/2 cups of sugar, macerating at room temperature for at least 6 hours (or overnight). 
  1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 
  2. If you didn't macerate your lemon (see above) then trim the ends of the lemon. Cut into thin slices and remove the seeds. 
  3. Add the lemon slices (or macerated lemon sugar mix), butter, salt, sugar (if you macerated the lemons, do not add more sugar), eggs, and vanilla extract into blender or food processor. Blend completely smooth and creamy. 
  4. Pour the mixture into the unbaked pie shell. 
  5. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until the top starts to turn golden. You may need to cover the edges of the pie crust if it starts to brown before the pie is done. 
  6. Remove from oven and allow to completely cool before slicing. 
  7. Dust with powered sugar. 
  8. Store pie in the fridge. 
NOTE: Avoid using large lemons. They typically have a thicker pith which can make your pie too bitter. 

Tuesday, April 17, 2018

CHOCOLATE CHESS PIE



photo: slw

First of all, what is chess pie? You might not be familiar with it if you're not from the South. The simple filling is made from pantry staples of eggs, sugar, butter, and a small amount of flour or cornmeal (or even vinegar) to hold it together. You can change the flavor of this base filling by adding vanilla, lemon juice, nuts, spices, or even chocolate. The variations are limitless. If you're curious about the origin of the name, there's a bit of folklore around the name. Some believe the word "chess" is an Americanization of the English word "cheese," referring to English Lemon Curd pie (chess pie is a cheese-less cheesecake). Another explanation suggests that "chess" is just a drawn-out drawl for "chest," which is how the very sugary pie had to be stored to keep the flies away (pie chest). And then my favorite is the folklore a plantation cook was asked what she was baking that smelled so good, and she replied, "Jes pie." Whatever the truth, chess pie is a southern staple that must be tried by all. 

I baked chocolate chess pie that doesn't require a tablespoon of flour or cornmeal, probably because of the cocoa powder. For the crust I used the "stir and roll" Wesson oil recipe I blogged about yesterday. This is one of my favorite pies -- delicious. 

Chocolate Chess Pie

1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell
1 1/2 c granulated sugar
3 heaping Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch fine sea salt
1 (5-ounce can) evaporated milk
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract


  1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 
  2. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the sugar, cocoa powder, and salt. Add the evaporated milk, butter, eggs, and vanilla extract, whisking well to combine. 
  3. Pour the filling into an unbaked pie shell. Bake for about 40-45 minutes, or until the filling is set around the edges but slightly jiggles in the center. 
  4. Cool the pie on a wire rack. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled. 

Monday, April 16, 2018

STIR AND ROLL PIE CRUST


I've experimented with dozens of pie crust recipes over the years. My tried and true method consists of both butter (for flavor) and shortening (for flakiness) for a delicious and tender crust. However, it does take practice and a sure-hand, and even then you're not guaranteed perfect results. I've had years to refine my methods and making pie crust is second-nature to me but I was intrigued when I came across a recipe that was as simple as pour, stir, and roll. I collect old cookbooks so it wasn't the first time I'd heard of an oil-based crust but it was the first time I was tempted to try it. I didn't think it could possibly compete with traditional crust methods, but the idea of simply "stir and roll" was just too tempting to pass up. The results were mind-boggling; the crust turned out both tasty and flaky. Far from perfect there were downsides, the dough can be difficult to rollout and handle. It wasn't easy to keep in one piece as it kept breaking off. However, it was easily fixed by pressing bits of the dough into the pastry to cover holes in the pan, which you can't really do with traditional crusts, lest over-handle the dough. Also, there was the oiliness. But overall, it's an easy and quick pie crust recipe that doesn't require expensive ingredients, a lot of elbow grease, or rest period for the dough before rolling out. I'd definitely use it for single crust pie recipes.

Stir and Roll Single Pie Crust
(makes one 9" crust)
1 1/2 c. sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp salt (adjusted, original recipe called for 1 tsp)
3/8 c. (1/4 c. plus 2 Tbsp) Wesson Oil
3 Tbsp cold whole milk
  1. FOR PAR-BAKED CRUST: Preheat oven to 475º F, a very hot oven. 
  2. In a bowl, start by sifting the flour twice. Whisk in the salt and create a little well in the flour mixture. 
  3. Pour oil and milk into one measuring cup, but do not stir. Pour into the well of the flour mixture; mix with fork until cleans side of bowl. 
  4. Finish by gently kneading the dough together into ball, flatten slightly, and place between two pieces of wax paper. Roll out gently until circle reaches edges of paper.
  5. Peel off top paper, then pick up pastry and bottom paper by one edge (they will cling together). Place, paper-side up, over pie pan. Then loosen pastry at edges and carefully peel off paper. Ease pastry snugly into place. Finish edge as desired. 
  6. FOR PAR-BAKED CRUST: prick bottom and side thoroughly with fork. Bake on lower rack in pre-heated oven 8-10 minutes, until golden brown. 
Stir and Roll Double Pie Crust
(makes two 9" crusts)
2 c. sifted all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt (adjusted, original called for 1 1/2 tsp)
1/2 c. Wesson oil
1/4 c. cold whole milk
  1. Follow single crust directions for mixing. Round up dough. Divide in half, flatten slightly. 
  2. Roll out halves between pieces of waxed paper (as above). 
  3. Line pie pan with bottom crust, fill, cover with top crust. 
  4. Seal by pressing edges gently with fork, or fluting. 
  5. Snip 3 or 4 small slits near center.
  6. Bake pies, such as apple, in pre-heated hot oven, 425º F, for 40-45 minutes. 

Monday, November 20, 2017

COOK'S COUNTRY OLD-FASHIONED PECAN PIE

ph: slw

Most pecan pie recipes call for Karo corn syrup which results in an overly sweet, artificial-tasting pie that bears little resemblance to their 19th-century inspiration. Cook's Country wanted to create a traditional pecan pie without using modern day, processed corn syrup and after much trial and error, experimenting with a host of traditional syrups (cane, sorghum), they discovered that a combination of maple syrup with brown sugar and molasses replicated the flavor profile of old-fashioned pecan pies. 

To ensure the bottom crust was crisp and golden brown, they started the pie at a high temperature then dropped it down to finish cooking. An addition of cream yielded a welcome custardy transformation to the filling. This also made the filling looser, a problem easily solved by adding extra egg yolks. 

To finish off the recipe, they found toasting the nuts before they went into the pie gave them enough crunch and flavor to hold their own in the filling. Here's the recipe.

Old-Fashioned Pecan Pie
1 cup maple syrup (grade A)
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon molasses
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups of toasted and chopped pecans
9-inch unbaked pie shell, chilled in pie plate for 30 minutes
  1. Make Filling: adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 450º F. Heat sugar, syrup, cream, and molasses in saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool 5 minutes. Whisk butter and salt into syrup mixture until combined. Whisk in egg yolks until incorporated. 
  2. Bake Pie: Scatter pecans in a pie shell. Carefully pour filling over. Place pie in hot oven and immediately reduce oven temperature to 324º F. Bake until filling is set and center jiggles slightly when pie is shaken, 45 to 60 minutes. Cool pie on rack for 1 hour, then refrigerate until set, about 3 hours and up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving. 

Sunday, November 19, 2017

META GIVEN'S PUMPKIN PIE

ph: slw

It's Sunday and I'm baking pies for Pie Monday, something I initiated at work because, let's face it, everyone loathes Mondays. Yesterday, I baked a double-crust apple pie and an old-fashioned pecan pie. Today, I'm baking a pumpkin pie for the office potluck on Tuesday. 

This recipe calls for caramelizing the pumpkin puree which means that this is a pie whose flavor doesn't hide behind a bunch of spice. You don't have to blind bake the crust because you blast it at 400 degrees the whole time, and bakes in 25 minutes - less than half the time of your average back-of-the-can recipe. You use real milk and cream instead of evaporated milk, yielding better tasting results. Hands down the best pumpkin pie I've ever eaten, even if there are cracks in my custard.

Meta Given's Pumpkin Pie
1 3/4 cups (1 15 oz can) canned or fresh cooked pumpkin puree
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 eggs
1 cup cream
1/2 cup milk
9-inch unbaked, non-pricked, chilled pie shell
  1. Turn pumpkin into saucepan and stir over direct heat for 10 minutes until somewhat dry and slightly caramelized, stirring frequently. Remove from heat but keep hot. 
  2. Mix thoroughly together the sugar, salt, and spices, and stir into hot pumpkin. 
  3. Beat eggs, add cream and milk, and beat into pumpkin mixture until smooth. 
  4. Pour immediately into non-pricked pastry-lined pie pan and bake in a moderately hot oven (400º F) for 25 to 30 minutes or until pastry is golden brown and only an inch circle of the center of the filling remains liquid. Cool throughly on cake rack before cutting.
Note: Perfectly baked pumpkin pie has no cracks on its surface. Baking hot and filling in a chilled crust at 400º F for 25 to 30 minutes produces a smooth and shiny good textured custard and a well-baked crust free from soaking. But if your pie dish is thicker glass or ceramic instead of metal, or you loathe an underdone bottom crust, you might still want to blind bake it a little. 

Recommendation: blind bake at 350º F lined with parchment paper and filled with baking beans or weights until sides are dry and firm, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove weights, then bake until completely dry and firm (including bottom crust) and starting to turn golden, 5 to 10 minutes more. Cool thoroughly. Then watch the pie closely as it bakes -- it might be done early, since the cold raw crust isn't there to protect it. And if the edges are starting to look wrinkled while the middle is very jiggly, turn the heat down to 350º F.